Accordion Terrorists

UH OH .. the accordion terrorists are on the Metro. These are players with accordion’s who get in your car on the Metro, and torture you with sounds from these bellows driven instruments, the clacking and squealing of the train hurling through a tunnel adds a discordant accompaniment. I don’t mean any disrespect for this musical trademark of France, but it is not pleasing to these ears. Just before the next stop they pass through the aisles with outstretched hands, collecting tips. Are they kidding? Why would I pay for this? They spend the day moving from car to car playing for their supper. Actually, as annoying and yes, funny, I think this is, I guess it’s better than just outright begging. Although right now, I feel like begging them to stop.

Okay, music makers have moved on and now some guy is coming down the aisle passing out yellow index sized cards with French writing obviously asking for money. He passes out the cards then comes back with outstretched hand, collects coins and picks up the cards. Well, at least he is quiet.

Next on the Metro stage is an orator, these are people who give a loud passionate speech’s, then like the others, pass through the car with outstretched hands. They are very organized and professional. Some of them even bring little stools to stand on. Apparently this is the Speakers Corner of Paris.

I finally make it to my stop with change intact, climb the stairs and face the ticket touts The Metro exit is a favorite place for plying their wares. Cerche la Place? . Cerche la Place? They call out to everyone. I assume this means something about buying tickets. The sidewalk along Avenue de la Porte d’ Auteuil is lined with these ticket sellers, buying, trading, negotiating deals. They carry home made signs in French and English. They must be professionals and probably make decent money, be cause I recognize a couple who have been here for years. I wave my credential at them and proceed unmolested.

The French Tennis Federation is celebrating 80 years of the French Open, and as part of this celebration, they have designed a fabulous banner stretching the entire block along this same walk before you enter the site. The banner depicts the history of the Open from its inception to the present. Really impressive. Things are done so well here, everything is about art and design. I wonder where this tradition began. Where the French gained their sensitivity to art. how it became so much a part of their culture.

I’m finally at the site, and to do some nice I'm hoping to do some nice photos today. Checking the schedule I see that Guga is playing doubles fourth match on court three. I’m going to have to get there really early because court three is one of the smallest show courts, and I know it’s going to be packed.

I headed over to grab a couple of shots of Serena, but she was shut out in straight sets by the Slovenian No27 seed Katarina Srebotnik, and it's over before I make it to Suzanne Lenglen. I guess I won’t be getting any snaps of Serena this trip. How about Murray? He’s playing clay court specialist, Nicolas Almagro of Spain, so Andy may be packing his bags tonight.

Murray, who came here never having won a match at Roland Garros, has made it to the second round after defeating a young French wildcard in five sets in the first round. Actually he is playing a good match most of the time, but his famous inconsistency rears its ugly head on important points, and Almagro ends up winning in four sets.

Time for a bite of lunch, and I opt for the food court rather than the press dining room. Roland Garros has without a doubt the best food court anywhere. Chefs in white toques prepare appetizing hot and cold dishes. The garden setting, complete with a waterfall, sparkling fountain, and a profusion of white flowers has lovely and inviting atmosphere. No fast food here, the French know how to dine even at a sporting event.

Finished with a quick lunch I make my way to Guga’s doubles. He’s playing with Sebastian Grosjean, and as predicted the stands are packed. Fans are doing the wave and chanting Guga! Guga!. The green blue and yellow flags of Brazil are waving. I have a little lump in my throat knowing that this for sure is the last time I will see Guga play professionally. They loose to the young Romanian team of Florin Mergea and Horia Tecau. in three sets. Guga signs autographs, and leaves the court smiling and waving. Now it’s really finished, the last match on the red clay of Roland Garros for the much loved Brazilian.

I decide to catch the end of Odesnik and Djokovic. I’m pretty sure O doesn’t have a chance against DJ, but I want to see how he fares with a top player. He looses in 3, but makes a decent showing, 7-5, 6-4, 6-2. Check out his sox, I'll bet those will be going in the trash.

It’s now 9:45, and I want to catch the 10 PM shuttle, so I’ll stop these ramblings until tomorrow.

American's in Paris

Wow, I am seriously tired today. Arrived tired from the flight and have not been able to catch up. If you read my Farewell Guga blog, you will know that it was a late nite. Would not have minded a little rain this morning, but of course it never rains when you'd like it to, when you need to catch up on sleep. Oh well, tennis goes on and I need to get it together. Fresh Orange juice, a bowl of cereal with milk, and an espresso, in other words, sugar, carb, protien, caffine, and I'm somewhat human.

First match I want to hit is Blake, Gulbis. All the Americans here were pretty excited when seventh seeded James defeated Germany's Rainer Schuettler in the first round making him the first American man to reach the second round at Roland Garros since 2006! My word, what is going on here? Maybe American Moms need to let their children play in the dirt more often. It’s not like it’s impossible for US players to win here. Anyone remember Jim Courier, Andre Agasi, Michael Chang? Are players taking what journalists are saying about American’s not being able to play on clay too mush to heart? Perhaps we should stop letting them read newspapers. Okay, okay, no smart remarks now about weather or not they even read. Nineteen year old up and comer, Ernests Gulbis ranked 80th in the world seems like a good second round draw for Blake. Everyone was hoping that this would be a chance for the American's to break the second week draught, but it was not to be. For Blake the party was over in four sets. In his post match press conference, a disappointed Blake said, “I think in any close match there are going to be opportunities going both ways,” Blake said. “He took advantage of his. I didn't take advantage of mine. The match was just poor, not within my game.

So, that's the bad news, the good news is Ginepri scored a great win over over 29th seed, Igor Andreev.

Playing two day's in a row because of rain delay, Ginepri dropped the first set, but fought hard, and took the second two. He's playing with a terrible looking taped up right arm, but it doesn't seem to be affecting his play, or his “hot” factor. The stands are always filled with young lip glossed beauties squealing “Robby, Robby!” in high pitched voices.

He’ll meet Florent Serra in the next round. How great would it be for him to make it past the third round? That would for sure be something to write home about.

Don’t know where the time goes, but I catching the 10:30 van back to my Place at the Top. As tired as I am I need nourishment badly. I love the neighborhood I’m living in here. Even at 11 PM you can go out and find something to eat . The streets are still crowded and the café’s full. People here still practice the art of communication, of exchanging ideas. I wish I could understand French so I’d know what they talk about, the conversation seems lively, with lots of hand and arm waving. I often wonder if you taped their hands together if they could talk at all. To me this seems a lot more interesting and enlightening than sitting at home in front of the TV.

My friend Xinyi has also left the site late, so we amble along the narrow streets trying to decide where to stop. There are many tempting choices. We settle on a pleasant sidewalk café and share three cheese fondue, Greek salad, and small bottle of red wine. Perfect.

Last stop of the day is my favorite street side Crepe place. The man making crepes remembers me from last year and greets me with a friendly, “ Allo! You are the journalist from America! I remember you!”. I smile back delighted and reply, “un crêpe nutella un crêpe s'il vous plaît in my very best French.

American's in Paris

Wow, I am seriously tired today. Arrived tired from the flight and have not been able to catch up. If you read my Farewell Guga blog, you will know that it was a late nite. Would not have minded a little rain this morning, but of course it never rains when you'd like it to, when you need to catch up on sleep.

Oh well, tennis goes on and I need to get it together. Fresh Orange juice, a bowl of cereal with milk, and an espresso, in other words, sugar, carb, protien, caffine, and I'm somewhat human.

First match I want to hit is Blake, Gulbis. All the Americans here were pretty excited when seventh seeded James Blake defeated Germany's Rainer Schuettler in the first round making him the first American man to reach the second round at Roland Garros since 2006! My word, what is going on here? Maybe American Moms need to let their children play in the dirt more often.

It’s not like it’s impossible for US players to win here. Anyone remember Jim Courier, Andre Agassi, Michael Chang? Are players taking what journalists are saying about American’s not being able to play on clay too much to heart? Perhaps we should stop letting them read newspapers. Okay, okay, no smart remarks now about weather or not they even read.

Nineteen year old up and comer, Ernests Gulbis ranked 80th in the world seems like a good second round draw for Blake. Everyone is hoping that this would be a chance for the American's to break the second week draught, but it was not to be.

For Blake the party was over in four sets. In his post match press conference, a disappointed Blake said, “I think in any close match there are going to be opportunities going both ways,” Blake said. “He took advantage of his. I didn't take advantage of mine. The match was just poor, not within my game.













So, that's the bad news, the good news is Ginepri scored a great win over over 29th seed, Igor Andreev. Playing two day's in a row because of rain delay, Ginepri dropped the first set, but fought hard, and took the second two. He's playing with a terrible looking taped up right arm, but it doesn't seem to be affecting his play, or his “hot” factor. The stands are always filled with young lip glossed beauties squealing “Robby, Robby!” in high pitched voices.

He’ll meet 9th seed, Stanislas Wiwrinka of Switzerland in the next round. How great would it be for him to make it past the third round? That would for sure be something to write home about.

Don’t know where the time goes, but I end up catching the 10:30 van back to my Place at the Top. As tired as I am I need nourishment badly. I love the neighborhood where I’m living in here. Even at 11 PM you can go out and find food, drink, or if you are in the mood entertainment.

The streets are still crowded and the café’s buzzing. People here still practice the art of communication, the interchange of ideas. I wish I could understand French so I’d know what they talk about. The conversation seems lively, with lots of hand and arm waving. I often wonder if you taped their hands together if they could talk at all. To me this seems a lot more interesting and enlightening than sitting at home in front of the TV.

My friend Xinyi has also left the site late, so we amble along the narrow streets trying to decide where to stop. There are many tempting choices. We settle on a pleasant sidewalk café and share three cheese fondue, Greek salad, and small bottle of red wine. Perfect.

Last stop of the day is my favorite street side Crepe place. The man making crepes remembers me from last year and greets me with a friendly, “ Allo! You are the journalist from America! I remember you!”. I smile back , delighted, and reply, “un crêpe nutella s'il vous plaît" in my very best French.

Farewell Guga

Thank you for 11 years of Samba, Smiles, and Brazilian Sunshine.

Tonight night I went to the farewell party for Guga in Paris. It was a private party for friends and family. No press was allowed. It was a night for fun. And what a night it was! No one can party like the Brazilians. No sad goodbye’s at this party. It was a celebration of Guga’s years in Paris.

The chic VIP room on the Champs Elysee was the setting. Guests were greeted with flutes of champagne on arrival. Tables glittered with candles and bottles of French wine. Music from a Brazilian Band filled the air. Videos of Guga’s play at Roland Garros were projected along one wall. Wow, impressive. Wonderful.

Guga arrived clad in white sweater, black jeans, that great curly hair, and wonderful smile. I turned to the girls standing next to me and ask, “Who is cuter than Guga?” NO ONE was the unanimous reply!

It was Guga’s night and he was the star, but in typical Guga fashion, you would never know he was the guest of honor. He arrives with no fanfare, no entourage, no escort, mingles with friends, laughs, chats, play’s guitar with the band. Through all of Guga’s fame and adulation, he always remained the same simple, friendly, nice guy, this, I’m sure is what makes us all love him.

Players and friends from around the world gathered for this celebration. Guga’s best friend, Ecuadorian, Nicolas LaPentti came by even though he had a match the next day. The French were represented by Cedric Pioline, Olivier Patience, Richard Gasquet, Jean Phillipe Fleurian, and Mary Pierce. Spain’s Tommy Robredo, former player Karim Alami, from Morocco ( better known among women on the tour as, “ Karim the Dream” ( pronounced Ka reem to rhyme with Dream” Argentina’s Hernan Gumy, ( another heartbreaker, who the girls dubbed “yummy gummy” took part in the festivities.

I remember the first time I saw Guga play. He came striding out on court, curls bouncing, resembling a one of those bobble head dolls, and I thought, “ Who is this guy? Interesting, makes good pictures. I’m really liking him.” He started winning, one match, then another, I kept saying,

“ Wouldn’t it be great if he won?” Of course everyone thought that was a totally mad idea since he was 66 in the world at that time. Well, he did win, defeating Spain’s Sergi Bruguera in the final. The celebration was historic. Brazilian fans sambaing around Roland Garros, drums beating out the rhythms of their native county.

Then another big win in 1999. That was the year of the big celebration party at the Ritz Carlton, dancing and revelry going into the next morning. Many of the same people who were at that party 9 years ago were also at the party last night. Marcello and Guga entertained playing guitar and singing in 1999 to celebrate Guga’s second win, and then again to celebrate his career in 2008. This is the kind of loyalty this very special man inspires. We will miss him dearly, but we will always be thankful for eleven years of wonderful memories.

Guga has a bright sun tattooed on his hand. He said that is so he will always have the sunshine with him. In these troubled and often negative times, it’s good to remember that there are people like Gustavo Kuerten who will always bring sunshine into the world around him.

Rain Rain Go Away

Is the Paris or Wimbledon?

With a third straight day of rain in Paris, even if the matches that are currently on finish, we will still be around 20 matches behind. They have not even finished the first round . Not a good way to start a Grand Slam. Tomorrow’s forecast is for cloudy but no rain, However, Thursday it is expected to rain all day. Well, the good news is, I’ll have time to do the shops and museums. I always say there are two ways of looking at things, and I’m choosing to look at the bright side in this case.

I spent most of today trying to decide if I should even go to the site at all. Was actually planning to sleep in but a call from a friend and colleague at 9AM asking if I was going to the site, got me up. It was raining pretty steadily at that point, so I couldn’t figure out why she was calling me, maybe she was in a hotel with no windows, told her to meet me for breakfast at 11AM and tried to get a little more sleep, but it was not good. I was awake. Darn! This was the perfect day for a good rest, because now that the tournament is behind, when it finally clears up I will be working nonstop.

Okay, now that I’m up I may as well get a few things done. Put on my rain gear, and went go to do a few errands. Needed to get a French sim card for my phone, and flowers for my apartment. Just because it’s raining, doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be pleasant in my Place at the Top.

I meet Xinyi, my friend who writes for the Shanghai newspaper for coffee and croissant, it’s still raining, but we check the internet to see if maybe it’s maybe it’s different at Roland Garros, no; they are in rain delay and are now saying that they will start play in one and a half hours. I don’t trust this and decide to wait and see if they actually get the covers off the courts before going out to the site. We decide to browse in the Tashen bookstore. Very dangerous!! This is one of my favorites full of beautiful high quality art books and good looking artists and musicians. Tempted as I am to own a thick book with wonderful photos of famous Jazz musicians, I remind myself of the expense of overweight luggage.

Back up the five flights and another trip to Roland Garros via the internet. It’s still raining.. Okay, time for a nice lunch. We up our umbrellas and find a very inviting small Italian Trattoria just as it starts to rain hard. So glad to be in this warm dry place with great food and a glass of red wine. Not minding the rain at all right now. We finish lunch and make another trip to the Internet. They are playing!! Wow, now we have to hurry to get ourselves together and go out to the site. Just as we start down the steps to the Metro, it starts raining again. Forget this! I want to see the end of Isner and Chela but I’m going to be really unhappy if I make the trip and there is no play. Plus, I reason, even if it is not actually raining it is dark, with heavy clouds. There will be no nice photos today.

Xinyi, opts for going shopping… she is one of the great shoppers of the world, and I decide to check out some of the small galleries in the area. I love rue de Seine a narrow cobblestoned street lined with high-end art galleries specializing in 19th and 20th century masters, prints, and photographs. If you feel like splurging on a small Vlaminck , or Matisse Print, or a Picasso sketch, this is the place.

Prefer pre Columbian? Chinese antiquities? Contemporary Japanese? Turn right on rue Jacob and you will discover a treasure trove of choices.

5 PM, It’s still raining but Parisians take it in stride, the café’s are filled with people sipping coffee, a glass of wine, sharing conversation, gossip, reading, or just watching the passing scene. I find a table, order a pot of tea, and stop worrying about rain delays, and photos, sit back and enjoy the people watching, after all, I’m living like a Parisian for the next two weeks.

Place at the Top

I’ve finally settled into my cute little Paris apartment. I love living like a Parisian for two weeks each year. I call it my Place at the Top because it’s a FIVE story walkup. No problem with eating Pain Chocolate, or Crepe’s Fromage. Maybe this is why the French are slender even though everything you eat here is filled with butter, cream, cheese or all three. I wonder how many of these gorgeous skinny Frenchys are climbing 4 or 5 flights daily?


I learned quickly not to forget anything once I left the apartment and to get everything I need while I’m out. The first day I had to go up and down 5 times. First, to get groceries, the second because I forgot my phone, the third because I forgot my umbrella, the fourth when I got back from the site, and the fifth when I came back from dinner! That equals TWENTY FIVE flights of stairs in one day! I don’t mind telling you that the last time up I was going pretty slowly. Hopefully I’ll be running up them when I leave in 14 days, and I’ll go back to Los Angeles looking like a skinny French girl!

On the plus side, my windows look out onto Boulevard St. Germain, the main street running through the St. Germain-des-Pres quarter. This quarter has been the intellectual and cultural site for Parisian life since the 1930’s. The rich and the trendy mingle with artists, authors, and philosophers at clubs, brasseries and upscale shops that line the Boulevard.

I love this area and know it well. I’ll take you on a tour of the shops, small streets and café’s later this week, but now I think it’s time to go to the site.

The metro station is right across the street, its 7 metro stops and a ten minute walk to Roland Garros.

The US started out with 19 players and is down to 15 with four wins and four losses. This is good news, definitely an improvement over last year’s showing when none of the Americans made it past the first round.

Harkleroad, Querrey, Ditty, and Osterloh, will be packing their bags, while The Sisters, Blake and Odesnik prepare for their next match. Odesnik, unseeded and currently ranked 106, scored a 7-6, 7-6, 7-6, 10-8 nail biter over 29th seed Guillermo Canas.

This is Odesnik’s first appearance here and he is the one U.S. player that loves to slide around in the dirt. He’ll play Hyung-Taik Lee in the next round and if he prevails in that match, he will probably meet Djokovic in the third round. Djokovic is scheduled to play Miguel Angel Lopez Jaen of Spain in the second, and the book is that he will advance, but of course there are always upsets at Roland Garros, so we will just have to wait and see how it goes.

Venus survived a little scare in her opening round match. She won the first and was up 4-1 in the second but dropped the set to 35 year old Tzipora Obziler of Israel. Umbrellas were up as rain drops fell on the court and threatened to stop the match in the third, but Venus stepped up her play and won the set 6-2.

After Venus I headed for the Isner/Chela match. Isner won the first two sets, but rain stopped play in the third. I decided this would be a great time to get a bite to eat since it was already 5PM and I hadn’t had lunch, so I headed to the food court where fans huddled under umbrellas meant to shade them from the sun. The food was closed down and it was ten deep at the bar, so I packed it in for the day and headed back to my Place at the Top.